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Monday, April 6, 2015

Elizabeth Mertz jewelry a hit at auction - The Frederick News-Post : Features


http://www.fredericknewspost.com/z/content_type/features/elizabeth-mertz-jewelry-a-hit-at-auction/article_788bd420-d587-59f7-84c0-0722a502860e.html

Barbara Mertz jewelry a hit at auction

By MARGIE HYSLOP Special to the News-Post | Posted: Sunday, April 5, 2015 2:00 am

As did her writings of mystery, suspense and exploring Egypt, Barbara Mertz’s jewelry collection drew interest from near and far at auction earlier this year.

The scholar and novelist penned 67 novels and three non-fiction works on ancient Egypt before she died at her 19th-century farmhouse outside Frederick in August 2013 at age 85.

Evident in Mertz’s jewelry, as in her books, was her fascination with Egypt, foreign lands, cultures, bygone eras and cats.

Mertz purchased the adornments from collectors around the world, said Jenny Putnam, fine jewelry specialist for Alex Cooper Auctioneers.

Museum directors, collectors and fans attended the Feb. 5 sale, held both online and at the Alex Cooper’s Towson gallery, Putnam said.

Although she declined to identify buyers, between 200 and 300 potential bidders attended the sale, Putnam said, and some came from as far as London and Hong Kong.

Among the 250 items sold were rare, centuries-old Egyptian pieces — including a green faience votive ring, said Mertz’s daughter, Elizabeth E. Mertz, who is a law professor at the University of Wisconsin in Madison.

That ring — featuring a seated cat surrounded by smaller cats — was very “mom,” Mertz’s daughter said.

During Egypt’s New Kingdom period, when it appears that the ring was made, the goddess Bastet was represented as a cat, she noted.

Bastet was also the name of a cat in a long-running series that Barbara Mertz wrote, under the pen name Elizabeth Peters.

In those 19 novels, the heroine was Amelia Peabody, an intrepid archaeologist, which is what Mertz aimed to become after she earned a doctorate in Egyptology at the University of Chicago in the early 1950s.

Mertz hit barriers in her quest to find work in academia, as many women did then.

During two years she lived in Europe while rearing her children, household help enabled her to turn her hand to writing.

In novels that transported her readers to other places and times, Mertz used her both her education and the research skills she had honed.

Daughter Elizabeth, who earned a doctorate in anthropology herself, shared her mother’s interest in various cultures.

However she did not share her mother’s love of jewelry. She did gain an appreciation of her mother’s collection by handling her estate.

“Somewhere mom’s laughing — she finally got me to pay attention to this hobby of hers,” Professor Mertz said.

Many pieces in Barbara Mertz’s collection were from times and locales that were settings for her fiction (much of which was published under the name Barbara Michaels).

“She had a fascinating collection, very specific” in her selection of pieces, said Arthur Guy Kaplan, who wrote “The Official Identification and Price Guide to Antique Jewelry,” published by Random House.

Kaplan, a lawyer and antique dealer from Baltimore, said he had read many of Mertz’s books, met her and even sold her some earrings.

Kaplan’s jewelry business specializes in Victorian and Georgian era pieces and he said he purchased about a dozen items from the Mertz collection at auction.

One particularly stunning piece was a late 19th-century Art Nouveau gold and silver brooch, incorporating diamonds, emeralds, pearls, rubies and sapphires and depicting a butterfly amid flowering twigs.

Other purchases were English and from the Victorian era and of Egyptian and Indian origin, Kaplan said.

While Mertz’s books fed readers’ interests in archaeology, history and Egypt, her stories particularly inspired women, Elizabeth Mertz said.

“She made me and other young women feel they should dream big and do important things in the world and be themselves,” she said.

Her books appealed to older readers, too.

Reader William E. Joy, who came to the auction with his mother, said his mother’s interest “in all things ancient Egypt” ignited during her late 60s.

Documentaries sparked it and Mertz’s books held and informed it, Joy said.

What Mertz wrote was “popular not just because of story lines but because of real archaeological mysteries” they explored, Joy said. “Not everybody has the ability to communicate the knowledge they possess but Barbara Mertz could do it,” Joy, a medical illustrator from Owosso, Mich., said.

His mother also fancies felines, so, he said, he was not surprised when she bought a necklace featuring a cat amulet from the Mertz collection.

To honor part of her mother’s legacy, Elizabeth Mertz said she is trying to raise money to start a writer’s retreat in Barbara Mertz’s name at a Maryland college. She declined to name the school, as the effort is ongoing.


Fwd: Miroslav Barta uploaded "Bárta, M. e. a. (2009). Abusir XIII. Tomb complex of the vizier Qar, his sons..."


Thanks,
The Academia.edu Team

Fwd: Miroslav Barta uploaded "Abusir V. The Cemeteries at Abusir South 1"



Miroslav Barta (Charles University, Prague, Czech Institute of Egyptology) just uploaded a paper on Academia.edu:

Abusir V. The Cemeteries at Abusir South 1

by Miroslav Barta

Final publication of several Old Kingdom tombs excavated in Abusir in 1990´. It features the tombs of Ity (Third Dynasty), famous tomb of Kaaper, Fetekti (tomb with unique market scenes), Rahotep (whose false door was robbed in February 2011) and some others.

Thanks,
The Academia.edu Team

Academia.edu - The Cenotaph of Harwa: Excavation and Innovation, by Francesco Tiradritti


https://www.academia.edu/attachments/34347522/download_file?st=MTQyODMyOTA5MSwxNDMuMjMyLjczLjU2LDExNDYyNDk1&s=swp-toolbar

 

"The Cenotaph of Harwa: Excavation and Innovation."


Excavation in the courtyard of the funerary complex of Harwa (TT 37) and Akhimenru (TT 404) has revealed reliefs that have deepened our understanding of Egypt during the ‘renaissance’ of the first half of the seventh century BC, as Francesco Tiradritti describes.

Sunday, April 5, 2015

The forgotten pyramids of Sudan

For a set of very large photos, follow the link. Glenn

http://www.aljazeera.com/indepth/inpictures/2015/04/forgotten-pyramids-sudan-150405062541595.html

The forgotten pyramids of Sudan

Few visitors have been making the trek out to the country's northeast to see the secluded Nubian Meroe pyramids.

Sorin Furcoi | | Arts & Culture, Africa, Sudan

Bagrawiyah, Sudan - More than 200km from the Sudanese capital Khartoum, the remains of an ancient city rise from the arid and inhospitable terrain like a science-fiction film set. Nestled between sand dunes, the secluded pyramids seem to have been forgotten by the modern world, with no nearby restaurants or hotels to cater to tourists.
The Nubian Meroe pyramids, much smaller but just as impressive as the more famous Egyptian ones, are found on the east bank of the Nile river, near a group of villages called Bagrawiyah. The pyramids get their name from the ancient city of Meroe, the capital of the Kingdom of Kush, an ancient African kingdom situated in what is now the Republic of Sudan.
Around 1000 BCE, after the fall of the 24th Egyptian dynasty, the Nubian Kingdom of Kush arose as the leading power in the middle Nile region. The Kushite kings took over and ruled much of Egypt from 712 to 657 BCE. In 300 BCE, when the capital and royal burial ground of the kingdom moved to the Meroe region, the pharaonic tradition of building pyramids to encapsulate the tombs of rulers continued here.

Eg. Independent: Antiquities Ministry to protect Abydos Temple from groundwater


http://www.egyptindependent.com//news/antiquities-ministry-protect-abydos-temple-groundwater

Antiquities Ministry to protect Abydos Temple from groundwater


Mon, 30/03/2015 - 11:34

Al-Masry Al-Youm

The Antiquities Ministry is aiming to protect the Abydos Temple from collapse due to rising groundwater. 
 
In coordination with the American Research Center in Egypt, the ministry will attempt to save the temple, which is located in Sohag, Upper Egypt.
 
The project will work on preserving the heart of the temple and the cemetery of Osiris by diverting the groundwater into vertical wells and linking them to water channels in order to get rid of the water, said director general of Luxor antiquities Sultan Eid on Sunday.
 
Cleaning the temple and restoring the inscriptions, drawings and colors inside the temple will also be part of the project, Eid added.
 
Abydos is one of the most important archaeological sites in both Egypt and the world due to its religious and historical significance in ancient Egypt. It contains the tombs of some of the early kings of Egypt during the reign of the first and second dynasty, as well as artifacts belonging to the 19th dynasty.
 
It is the only temple which retains its ceiling, based on 36 pillars of granite. It contains the list of famous kings of Egypt, from King Menes until King Seti the First.
 
 
Edited translation from Al-Masry Al-Youm

Luxortimes: Tutankhamun to lead exodus from faded glory of old Cairo to slick new suburbs

http://luxortimesmagazine.blogspot.nl/2015/04/french-archaeologists-unearth-two-old.html

Tutankhamun to lead exodus from faded glory of old Cairo to slick new suburbs

Letter from Cairo: Irish architects to design museum close to pyramids at Giza

 Archaeologist Howard Carter opening the coffin of Tutankhamen which he discovered in 1922: when a museum worker broke his beard moving the mask, a conservationist simply stuck it back on. Photograph: Time Life Pictures/Mansell/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images Archaeologist Howard Carter opening the coffin of Tutankhamen which he discovered in 1922: when a museum worker broke his beard moving the mask, a conservationist simply stuck it back on. Photograph: Time Life Pictures/Mansell/Time Life Pictures/Getty Images
 
Earlier this year there were reports of a botched conservation job to one of the world’s most famous artefacts of the ancient world, the magnificent gold death mask of Tutankhamun.
After a museum worker at Cairo’s Egyptian Museum broke Tutankhamun’s beard when moving the mask, a conservationist simply stuck it back on.
Today visitors peer at the magnificent mask to see the break, and it is easy to see – a superglue job, and not a very skilled one at that. The incident seemed symptomatic of the state of the museum, one of Cairo’s major attractions.
The Egyptian Museum houses the world’s most extensive collection of Egyptian pharaonic artefacts in a museum whose 107 halls are dark, dusty and chaotic.
While little explanation might be necessary for Tutankhamen’s mummy, his queen, or their magnificent jewellery, thousands of exhibits are displayed with nothing to indicate what they are.
Some are hanging on nails in old-fashioned display cases while visitors try to guess their significance. This is such a pity, for the museum is a magnificent building, and has a proud history. In 1902 it was one of the world’s first purpose-built museums, of huge archaeological and patriotic importance, situated right in the centre of Cairo.
Apart from the obvious treasures, the more humble artefacts are also wonderful. Presumably due to the dry desert air, archaeologists have excavated not only metal and stone objects, but also wooden and fabric remains. But what they need is context and lighting.
Many museums these days appear to be little more than appendages to a shop. The Egyptian Museum is certainly different: it sells two postcards, one of the Rosetta Stone, which is actually in the British Museum, the other of Tutankhamun’s mummy.
Today, due to four years of political turmoil and revolution, much of it taking place just outside the museum in Tahrir Square, there are few visitors.

Burnt out shell

Towering above the museum is the burnt-out shell of the headquarters of the National Democratic Party, the political movement of deposed leader Hosni Mubarak. It is due to be pulled down and turned into a park.
Around the museum are military vehicles filled with soldiers. Casually leaning against the museum railings are riot shields. All around the square are barbed wire barriers, pushed to one side as if waiting for the next phase in Egypt’s turmoil.
Meanwhile, an hour away, if you are lucky, through Cairo’s appalling traffic, are the Pyramids of Giza. This is high season for tourism in Egypt; the summer months are just too hot. At the car park at Giza one morning last week was one tour bus. A guide, whose income, like all the other tourism workers, has fallen considerably, had a novel analysis of recent events. Mubarak was wonderful. His only error was not to deal more harshly with the Muslim Brotherhood. Of course Mubarak was in the presidential palace when tourists last visited Giza in large numbers.
The pyramids are spectacular. The sphinx even more so, but there is nothing to help you understand the landscape of this city of the dead bathed in heat haze and pollution, upon which Cairo and its satellites are encroaching.
That is about to change. A new museum is being built near the pyramids: the Grand Egyptian Museum. An Irish firm of architects, Heneghan Peng, won the prestigious international competition to design it. The museum was to be opened this year, but has been delayed.

New capital

When it is finally finished it will house all the Tutankhamun material in a wonderful new building within sight of the pyramids. However, one wonders who will visit the collection of ancient art still housed at the old Egyptian Museum. It could be another blow to central Cairo, already polluted and chaotic, whose 19th-century magnificence is getting harder to see.
But it is not only Tutankhamun who is leaving the centre of the city. More and more Cairenes have moved to new cities that surround Cairo, and President Sisi has announced the building of a new capital.
The new cities are rather odd places. One such is October 6th City – the name commemorates the start of the Yom Kippur War. With 14 universities, seven hospitals, with plans for eight shopping malls and eventually three million people living behind walls and gates in compounds, it’s a far cry from the crowded streets and shisha smoking coffee shops of old Cairo.

Saturday, April 4, 2015

weekly.ahram.org: Write like an Ancient Egyptian

http://weekly.ahram.org.eg/News/10893/47/Write-like-an-Ancient-Egyptian.aspx

Issue No.1240, 2 April, 2015      01-04-2015 10:39AM ET

Write like an Ancient Egyptian

Nesmahar Sayed watches as Egyptian schoolchildren rewrite the ancient Egyptian Book of the Dead
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In an attempt to teach young children hieroglyphics and introduce them to Jean-François Champollion, the Egyptologist who deciphered them, the French Institute for Oriental Studies (IFAO) in Cairo recently organised an exhibition displaying a chapter of the ancient Egyptian Book of the Dead.
The chapter was rewritten by pupils from three primary schools in Egypt, who worked together with their teachers and an Egyptologist from the institute to write out texts they had chosen.
“The preparations for this event started last October when some 150 students from three French schools in Egypt, five teachers and three Egyptologists from the IFAO met together to produce one chapter of the Book of the Dead,” said research director Nicolas Michel.
He said that the idea had been to teach the students, aged nine and ten years old, the basics of writing the hieroglyphic alphabet and to introduce them to Champollion as well. “The students were keen to learn about this history, and their class teachers followed the work with them,” Michel said.
The students’ work included copying papyri, writing their names using the hieroglyphic alphabet, and engraving the ancient Egyptian life-key and Horus eye on soap bars.
On display in the main hall of the IFAO is a painting of the jury scene, one of the chapters of the Book of the Dead that was copied by the children. Hassan Selim, a professor of Egyptology at Ain Shams University and a researcher at the IFAO, described the painting as reflecting modern Cairo as well as the pharaohs and ancient Egyptian gods by the River Nile.
The painting shows ancient Egyptian gods playing music and modern air force planes flying over the Pyramids. Selim said the children had been affected by contemporary events since the 25 January Revolution.
The project was part of celebrations marking the 200th anniversary of the publication of Champollion’s book L’Egypte sous les Pharaons (Egypt under the Pharaohs), published in Paris in 1814. An original edition of the book was on display at the event.
“This book was published before Champollion was able to discover the key to the hieroglyphic language. It was a beginning to his attempt to understand hieroglyphics,” Michel said.
The book deals with topics such as the religion, language, history and geography of ancient Egypt before the Persian invasion in the 6th century BCE.
Egyptologist Arnette Marie-Lys Arnette told the Weekly that the Book of the Dead had been chosen for several reasons.
It is a very important religious text, she said, and working on it was an opportunity to explain Egyptian funerary concepts to the children. It contains texts and images, so the children can copy the hieroglyphics and have fun at the same time. One of the three Egyptologists working on the project, Florence Albert, is a specialist on the text, she said.
Arnette said that this was the first time she had worked on such a scale with school students, helping them to learn and practice writing hieroglyphics. Many of them wrote their names, and all were enthusiastic and willing to participate in the project, she said.
Michel said the project aimed at creating teamwork among the students and a spirit of cooperation rather than competition. The schools involved had selected the chapters they wanted to work on based on a Ptolemaic copy of the Book of the Dead provided by the IFAO.
Arnette said that Chapter 125 was included because it showed one of the main themes of the Book of the Dead, the judgement of the dead in the presence of the god Osiris. The heart of the deceased, seat of emotions and thoughts, is shown being weighed, the divine jury then deciding whether the dead will live forever in heaven or be devoured by a monster and be condemned to eternal nonexistence.
“The results of the project were amazing,” Arnette said, adding that the children had carved hieroglyphs in soap so they could discover different carving techniques and understand their difficulty and written texts on potsherds so they could understand the writing tools used in ancient Egypt.
Each class wrote and drew its own Book of the Dead, and all of them were very different from one other. Some of them were very close to the ancient copy, whereas others were funny and more up-to-date, she said.
“All the material has been returned to the teachers, so they can organise new exhibitions in their schools. Then the Books of the Dead produced will be framed and kept in the schools. The written potsherds, called ostraca, and the carved soap will be returned to the pupils, so they can keep reminders of the event,” Arnette concluded.

Friday, April 3, 2015

LuxorTimesMagazine: French archaeologists unearth two Old Kingdom tombs


http://luxortimesmagazine.blogspot.com/

Minister of Antiquities announced today the discovery of two 6th Dynasty (Old Kingdom) tombs at the site of Tabit El-Geish, south of Sakkara.
The two tombs belong to priests who were contemporary to the reign of Pepi II (2240-2150 B.C). The tombs were discovered by the mission of the IFAO (Institut Français d’archéologie Orientale) directed by Dr. Vassil Dobrev.
The first tomb of a priest called "Ankhti" where the burial chambers was found in a shaft 12 meters deep and the second tomb belongs to a priest called "Sabi" where the burial chamber was found in a shaft 6 meters deep. In both tombs there are offering scenes.


 (Above: Ankhti tomb)
In the burial chambers of both tombs, human remains and skeletons of the tombs owners were found scattered around which could indicate that the tombs were robbed and vandalised during the 7th or 8th Dynasty.
There were alabaster jars found as well as coloured limestone offerings samples with pottery.
Dr. Vassil Dobrev, director of the mission, said that the upper part of the tombs were built with mud brick and the burial chambers were cut into the white limestone bedrock.
Both tombs have scenes of offerings lists and The seven sacred oils are those used in the Opening of the Mouth Ritual.

(Above: Photos of Sabo tomb. All photos are courtesy of MOA)

#Egypt #Sakkara #Giza #AncientEgypt #Heritage #History #Egyptology #Archaeology #IFAO  


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Luxor News - Jane Akshar: Free Egyptology Course Blue symposium

Luxor News - Jane Akshar: Free Egyptology Course Blue symposium: Udemy - Online Courses from the World's Experts The world has always been a colourful place. But do we see the colours of our modern ...

Tourists are trickling back to Egypt


Tourists are trickling back to Egypt

April 3 at 10:00 AM
“Welcome to Cairo.”
“Happy New Year!”
“Where are you from? Germany?”
“Happy Valentine’s Day!”
“Welcome to Alaska!”
“No? Welcome, America!”
Egypt was delighted to see me. So overjoyed, in fact, that Egyptians couldn’t contain themselves. They shouted greetings (some comprehensible, others befuddling) wherever I walked: along pinched lanes in the old Islamic quarter, inside pharaonic temples and tombs, in a Nubian village in Aswan, on the sandy shores of the Red Sea. The pleasantries came from policemen on horseback, vendors pushing heavy carts of peanuts and men smoking shisha in outdoor cafes, their salutations released in plumes of scented smoke.
“Welcome, welcome, welcome!”
Thank you, it’s a been a while. About four years, by most people’s count.
The calendar pages started curling on Jan. 25, 2011, the start of Egypt’s Arab Spring revolution, which resulted in the overthrow of President Hosni Mubarak. The following June, elections ushered in Muslim Brotherhood candidate Mohamed Morsi. About a year later he, too, was gone. Next up: Abdel Fattah el-Sisi. The former head of the armed services will celebrate his first year as president in June.
“We will go for it and see what happens,” said Mohamed, my Cairo guide. “But we are happy with this man. With so many problems around, we need a man like this.”
The years of political tumult upended the country and spooked millions of international travelers. Tourism, which reached record-high levels in 2010 with 14.7 million visitors, tumbled weeks later. Cruise ships eliminated Egyptian ports of call. Tour operators diverted clients to other points on the map. Western governments warned their citizens to avoid travel there.
Since Sisi’s rise, travelers have struggled to form a precise picture of Egypt, especially as troubles bubble up in nearby lands. (The latest: terrorist strikes in a Tunisia museum.) Though countries have downgraded their alerts, and cruise lines and tour groups are slowly returning, uncertainty persists. Many wonder: Is the country is safe? And, if so, will it last?
“Tourism is our religion, our food. We need it, our families need it,” a Cairo papyrus seller said. “The impression you have of Egypt is more important than buying.”
From Washington, I polled several experts on this topic, including an international risk-management analyst, a specialist in Egyptian travel and the country’s minister of tourism. They all told me that the country was safe and stable. Calm had been restored. It was time for Americans to return.
So this American did.
Alone time with dear old mummy
The winds of travel regularly blow in the same direction, from north to south, or Lower to Upper Egypt. The majority of tourists follow the Nile’s blue streak from Cairo to Luxor to Aswan, then back up.
I was not going to break from tradition, though I did want to put my own independent stamp on my mid-February trip. Instead of flying or driving to Luxor, I planned to take the overnight train. I also wanted to observe — close your eyes, Mother — one of the “gatherings” that often form after Friday prayers. And — keep ’em shut — I hoped to visit the Sinai Peninsula.
My agent at Audley Travel flicked away my fancies with her guardian-angel wings. Brigitte quashed the train idea, because the tracks cut through some dangerous territory between the two cities. She also informed me that my guides had clear instructions to avoid any demonstrations. However, she did grant me my third request, as long as I stayed in a resort town along the Red Sea coast. (Note: The State Department urges caution for all parts of the country, especially areas in the Sinai beyond Sharm el-Sheikh.)
Overall, I had a long leash with few restrictions. I could freely walk around the cities and towns alone (following street-smarts protocol, of course) and dress liberally (but not a la Kardashian). Depending on the company, I could broach topics (religion, politics, gender relations) often considered indelicate at company holiday parties. In return, I felt that many Egyptians were eager to share their opinions and recent experiences.
“The last few years in Egypt have been really hard,” Mohamed said as we waited for the car in the airport parking lot. “We had nothing and now we need everything. But it is getting better as people start seeing hope.”
The halo of optimism is expanding. In addition to steadying the country, Sisi has resumed projects started by Mubarak and developed new ones. Plans include building the Alexandria Underwater Museum, renovating the Grand Egyptian Museum at Giza, extending the Nile cruise trail to Alexandria and constructing more than 2,100 miles of roads. Tourism officials also hinted at reopening Nefertari’s tomb in Luxor, which closed in 2003 to protect its fragile interior.
The pyramid field at Dashur, about 25 miles south of Cairo, has been around since 2600 B.C. Pharaoh Sneferu was a pyramid perfectionist who tinkered with the design and materials of his afterlife crib. The Old Kingdom ruler is credited with creating the innovative triangular shape that inspired the scene-stealing monuments at Giza.
Despite Dashur’s historical significance, the government waited several millennia before inviting the public inside. The area, which also contains a military training camp, opened in 2005, though it lost several years to the revolution.
The Giza antiquities, including the Sphinx, attract droves of tourists. At the 242-foot-tall Red Pyramid, though, I could count the people on three fingers. I passed Thumb, Index and Pinkie on the way up the north face. A man draped in cotton garments guarded the entryway and asked whether I planned to take pictures. I peered into the narrow gloom, felt the squeeze of claustrophobia and declined.
The descent resembled a mine shaft with cleaner air. I crouched down low, taking wobbly baby giraffe steps into the deep stillness. I arrived in a large tomb chamber with a soaring corbelled ceiling. The burial space aligns with the North Star, a fast lane to the heavens. While we mere mortals have to navigate the dizzying stairs, the pharaoh-god took the divine route out.
Throughout my travels, I often discovered myself alone (e.g., Tombs of the Nobles, Howard Carter House, Valley of the Queens) or with small knots of people (Valley of the Kings). I came across the most robust crowds at the Mortuary Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, near Luxor. I was surrounded by Egyptian college students, many of whom found an American tourist to be as interesting a relic as the longest-reigning female pharaoh.
My Luxor guide said that during the golden age of tourism (6,000 people per day in 2010), folks often waited up to five hours to enter the three tombs at the Valley of the Kings. My record thumb-twiddling stretch: fewer than five minutes to see the tar-colored King Tut mummy. The longest queue: the Mummy Exhibit at Cairo’s Egyptian Museum.
“It’s busy, busy, busy,” my guide, Abdel, said before noon. “This line will remain with us till 3 or 4 o’clock.”
Though I skipped the exhibit, I did enjoy some mummy-and-me time elsewhere. There was me and the mummy fetus in the tomb of Amun-Hir-Khopshef, the princely son of Ramses III. Me and the mummified reptiles in the Crocodile Museum at the Temple of Kom Ombo. And me and the mummified pita that I excavated from the depths of my bag at the end of the trip.
No matter the size of the audience, or the attractions’ state of decomposition, security officials always seemed within shouting range.
After the Luxor terrorist attacks in 1997, the country amped up its patrol forces, even establishing a tourist police. I grew accustomed to seeing uniformed men slinging semiautomatic rifles. I noticed them in airports, outside monuments, in the scrubby hills and along rural roadsides.
They were definitely watching. On the drive to Dashur, we stopped at several checkpoints to answer questions about our travel itinerary. At my hotel in Luxor, a guard would scribble on a clipboard every time we drove off. One afternoon, I saw him sharing the information with two men in a car marked “Tourist Police.” The exchange was friendly, as if they were discussing traffic conditions. Inside the Sofitel Winter Palace, all guests who entered the front doors had to step through an X-ray machine. However, the employee overseeing the scanner only smiled when I started walking around it.
The greatest buildup of security amassed in Cairo’s Tahrir Square, where the revolution’s flame burned white-hot. A line of police, some at ease in chairs, assembled along the main plaza, near the Egyptian Museum and several embassies. Behind them, hulking army tanks idled single file. Marksmen perched on top, ready for the unexpected.
Until my visit to Tahrir Square, I had only heard the stories. Now I saw the evidence. The National Democratic Party building, which protesters set on fire, was charred black and had peeled as if sunburned. Inside the museum, which abutted the party’s headquarters, a sign in the King Tut exhibit explained how on Jan. 28, 2011, a wooden sculpture from his tomb was stolen and broken into two fragments. A search uncovered the artifact in a trash can on the western side of the garden. The pharaoh's face, however, is still missing.
On the way out, I asked Abdel whether we could swing into the gift shop. Sure, except for one problem. He showed me the skeletal retail space with empty shelves and glass cases, the telltale signs of looters. More evidence.
Cook like an Egyptian
Chef Anha minces garlic but never words.
“Nothing,” she said emphatically, “will happen to you in Egypt.”
My first lesson at her House of Cooking school: Trust the matriarch of the kitchen on all matters. (When asked whether the revolution affected her Cairo business, she responded, “They still had to eat.” Can’t argue with that.)
The longtime chef teaches with her daughter, Mona. The pair of professionals take cooking seriously but not themselves. Anha is Lucy to Mona’s Ethel.
They hold classes in their sunlit Nasr City shop plastered with photos of grinning students posing with their homemade dishes. Mona handed me a checkered apron, while Anha reviewed the “I Love Egypt” menu: orzo soup, sauteed veggies stuffed in saj flatbread (or shawarma for the meat-eaters), baklava with walnuts and a mango yogurt drink.
To warm up the senses, Anha placed a platter of spices under my nose and quizzed me. I sniffed and called out cumin, cinnamon, ginger, smoked paprika and allspice. I blanked on turmeric but still passed.
“Three things make your food taste better,” she said with conviction. “Spices, marinating and sauce.”
While I stirred the tomato base for the soup, Anha, who wore a headscarf and a name tag adorned with a heart, shared Egyptian dining traditions.
“People here love to eat,” she said. “Whenever we visit a friend, we bring something to eat. You don’t show up without something to eat.”
We talked about local dishes, such as pigeon stuffed with rice and giblets sauteed with onions, and comfort foods, including ful (a fava bean mash), falafel and koshari, a mix of rice, lentils and fried onions. She illustrated the cost of food by comparing the prices of chicken (cheapest), veal (most expensive), beef and camel. Yes, camel, for about $7 a kilo.
I asked her about a dish I had watched a street vendor prepare in the Islamic quarter. He had fried dough in a pan and doused it with powdered sugar. She ordered Mona to look up “zalabia” online. Then she rattled off the recipe without looking.
During my wanderings through markets, I had seen many stalls crammed with large bins of aromatic substances. I asked Anha where she buys her spices; she answered, “New York.” But, she added, if I really wanted Egyptian spices, I should buy them whole. “The ground spices,” she explained, “are dirty with sand and dirt.”
When the first course was ready, we sat down at the table like family, chattering away between mouthfuls of pasta soup. But we didn’t relax for long.
Anha had me running between cutting board, stove top and blender, with brief interludes to refill my cup of mint tea. While my meal sizzled away, she filled my head with more information. For flavor, never skimp on salt, pepper or turmeric. Buy olives in October, and onions and garlic in March. To prevent weeping while slicing onions, keep the root intact and light a candle. I followed her advice and blinked away the tears. I didn’t want her to see me cry.
For dessert, we made baklava Anha-style. Instead of layering the thin sheets, I folded and rolled the phyllo pastry as if I were making hummingbird nests. I sprinkled chopped walnuts into the tiny well.
“It’s like holding a baby with love and care,” she said as we placed our delicate sweets on baking trays.
After several hours, my guide arrived to collect me. But Anha wouldn’t let him leave. She told Mona to prepare him a plate and instructed me to bring some food to the driver, who was waiting for us in the car.
Here comes the sun
On the flight to Abu Simbel, the woman seated next to me excitedly whispered, “He’s a famous Egyptian movie star.” She pointed at an elegant head with short graying hair.
I whispered back, “Who is he?”
She murmured his name, “Hesham Selim.” But my lost expression didn’t deter her from crossing into first class (basically, parting the ratty brown curtain) and tapping the actor on the shoulder.
She introduced me — handshake across the border — and the three of us spent the short flight chatting about the strained relations between our countries, the recent ISIS beheadings of 21 Egyptian Christians in Libya and our shared reason for flying to a tiny desert town near the border of Sudan.
Twice a year, the rising sun illuminates the inner sanctuary of Ramses II’s Great Temple. On Feb. 22 and Oct. 22, which signify the king’s birthday and coronation, the morning rays bathe four stone statues in shimmering light. On all other days, the sun stops short of the chamber sheltering the pharaoh and gods Ra-Horakhty, Amun-Ra and Ptah.
The event attracts hundreds of attendees who arrive by police-escorted caravans, planes, river boats and cars (sadly, no camels). My local guide, Moustafa, was a veteran strategist. He picked me up at my hotel at 2:30 a.m. for the 3 a.m. opening of the temple. (He wanted to beat the bus hordes.) The sun would start its eastern crawl at 6:21. He encouraged me to dress warmly and limit my liquid intake.
We shuffled into the temple with a Taiwanese tour group and a gaggle of Egyptian women. Dramatic shadows fell on carved images of a heroic Ramses battling the Nubians. We found an open space on the left aisle. I sat down on a hard ledge and leaned against a sandstone column from the 13th century B.C. By my feet, visitors formed a lumpy rug on the cold floor. Some played games on their smartphones; others dozed off. Everyone spoke in hushed voices.
At 6 a.m., the temple started to stir awake. Moustafa motioned for me to stand up and follow him. We walked down the corridor and rounded a corner, stumbling in the dark. I peered around a column to look at the main hall, squinting my eyes against the blast of golden light.
Guards ushered us toward the alcove. Small bundles of people crouched down, gasped and left. The line moved fast. When it was my turn, Moustafa charmed the guards for a few extra seconds.
I looked at Ramses’s sun-kissed face and swear he smiled at me. Or maybe I was just delirious. I took a picture that turned out blurry, much like my brief audience with the king.
I told Moustafa that I wanted another turn.
We only had 20 minutes before the sun would stop performing its solar trick. We exited the temple, pushed through clumps of people milling around the grounds and joined the line stretching toward the Nile. Behind us, the sun was rising fast, growing stronger and brighter with each passing moment.
More from Travel:
Michael Graves’s tour of Princeton
The strange afterlife of banned TSA items
Beyond the Nile Cruise
If you go
I booked my Egypt trip through Audley Travel in Boston (855-838-8300, www.audleytravel.com/us). The package included hotels with breakfast, guides and drivers, domestic flights, most admission fees and cultural activities, such as the cooking class. A seven-day trip starts at $2,500 per person double.
Where to stay
Le Riad Hotel de Charme
114 Muiz Li Din Allah St., Cairo
011-20-2-2787-6074
www.leriadhotel.com
Boutique hotel in the old Islamic quarter with 17 Egyptian-history-themed suites with private balconies and exotic decor. From $120.
Sofitel Winter Palace
Corniche el Nile St., Luxor
1-800-763-4835
www.sofitel.com
Five-star luxury hotel built in 1886 features opulent gardens and pool, stately bar, restaurants and ideal location by the Nile River, Luxor Temple and commercial district. From $250.
Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan
Abtal El Tahrir St., Aswan
1-800-763-4835
www.sofitel.com
Stunning property set in a 19th-century Victorian palace, with Nile views, pool, gardens, dining on the veranda, fitness center and spa. From $310.
Where to eat
Sofra Restaurant & Cafe
90 Mohamed Farid St., Luxor
011-20-95-235-9752
www.sofra.com.eg
Casual and cozy restaurant serves Best of Egypt dishes, such as stuffed pigeon and the lentils-and-rice dish koushry. Main dishes from about $2.50.
Naguib Mahfouz Cafe
5 al-Badestan Ln., Khan al-Khalili, Cairo
011-20-2-2590-3788
Elevated traditional cuisine served in a serene setting amid the hectic market. Entrees from about $12.
What to do
The House of Cooking
29 Ezz el Din Taha St., Nasr City
011-20-100-680-0621
www.thehouseofcooking.com
Cooking classes led by very entertaining and knowledgeable mom-and-daughter chefs. Various cuisines offered. The “I Love Egypt” three-course class costs $65.
The Great Temple of Ramses II
Abu Simbel
The next sunrise event takes place on Oct. 22. Book early — and go early!
Information
www.egypt.travel
Andrea Sachs (not the one who wears Prada) has been writing for Travel since 2000. She travels near (Ellicott City, Jersey Shore) and far (Burma, Namibia, Russia), and finds adventure no matter the mileage. She is all packed for the Moon or North Korea, whichever opens first.

Alexandrian Sculpture in the Graeco-Roman Museum

For the PDF, follow the link.
https://www.academia.edu/11758863/Alexandrian_Sculpture_in_the


 Editor’s Foreword

The Graeco-Roman Museum of Alexandria, with an extraordinary collection and a history of almost 120
years, remains one of the most important museums within the wider region of the Mediterranean. Situated in the
heart of modern Alexandria, it became her ‘inner sanctum’, preserving the spirit of the glorious past. This series
is a nostalgic homage to that museum (1892-2005) and its extraordinary collection, before we welcome the
renovated Graeco-Roman Museum.

It is hoped that these illustrations will enable the general public to be carried
back in time on a nostalgic journey which captures the spirit of the Graeco-Roman Museum as it was lovingly
founded by Giuseppe Botti and Evaristo Breccia, nurtured in its youth by Achille Adriani, all of whom fostered a
museological environment appropriate for the legendary city of Alexandria, an environment congruent with the
city’s literary ambiance of E.M. Forster, Constantine Cavafy and Lawrence Durrell. At the same time we would
like to offer a useful thematic tool for researchers and lovers of ancient art.

This first monograph in the series, focusing on sculpture, is the fruit of two passionate researchers of ancient
Alexandria. However, much credit must be given to the initial phases of the documentation of the glass negatives
of the Graeco-Roman Museum project, initiated by Alex-Med in collaboration with the Supreme Council of
Egyptian Antiquities. Our sincere thanks to Ahmed Abdel Moneim and his research team of Alex-Med whose
efforts in the preservation of the negatives and their documentation have made this monograph possible.
In future monographs, Alex-Med will focus on other artifacts documented by the project, making this photo
documentation accessible both for research and for wider public interest.

Mohamed Awad
The Alexandria and Mediterranean Research Center

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