Close-up of a golden ancient Egyptian funerary mask with blue painted eyebrows and detailed facial features.
Outer anthropoid coffin lid of Thuya. Luxor, Valley of the Kings, Tomb of Yuya and Thuya (KV 46), New Kingdom, Dynasty 18, reign of Amenhotep III. Wood, gilded stucco with inlays of blue glass, obsidian (eyes), light blue, dark blue, and red glass. Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Photo by Massimo Listri

“We’re here to watch the treasures of the pharaohs, not to hunt them,” joked His Excellency Sherif Fathi Attia at the press preview for the Aug. 1 opening of a blockbuster exhibition at the de Young museum. “So keep in mind that this is not treasure hunting.” 

Historically speaking, at least, the Minister of Tourism and Antiquities for the Arab Republic of Egypt had a right to be apprehensive. He was addressing a crowd assembled for “Treasures of the Pharaohs,” and beneath him were assembled 130 priceless artifacts spanning 3,000 years. After all, ancient Egypt has been infamously pillaged for its bounty, and the question of provenance at foreign museums is a common issue

The treasures on display are not only culturally and financially valuable, they are also visually stunning. Take, for example, the necklace of Ahhotep with golden flies, a gift that would have been awarded for an act of bravery. 

Gold necklace featuring three bee or insect-shaped pendants with heart-like wings, strung on a fine chain, against a black background.
Necklace of Ahhotep with Golden Flies, Second Intermediate period – Eighteenth
Dynasty, Gold. Photo by Massimo Listri

“This may be your first and last opportunity to have a look at this jewelry,” said Dr. Tarek el Awady, exhibition curator and former director of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. Since it is on the Luxor Museum list of masterpieces, Awady explained, future travel is highly unlikely. Arguably its only rival in the show is the collar of Psusennes I, eleven pounds of solid gold, thought to be the heaviest piece of jewelry from the ancient world.  

It’s also difficult to imagine the solid black granite statue of the mayor Sennefer, his wife Senetnay and their daughter Mutnefret making another trip, given its extraordinary weight. Hewn from one of the hardest rocks in the world, it was found in 1903 on the east bank of Luxor. Awady interprets the work of art as evidence that women were equal to men in ancient Egyptian society.

Ancient Egyptian stone statue depicting two seated adults and a small child standing between them, all with hieroglyphic inscriptions on their garments.
Family statue of the mayor Sennefer, his wife Senetnay, and daughter Mutnefret
Dynasty 18, New Kingdom. Granodiorite, Cache of Karnak Temple, Luxor
Egyptian Museum, Cairo.

“Exactly half of the [hieroglyphic] text talks about the man, and the other half is talking about the wife, and we have her titles exactly like him,” he said. It’s also a remarkable demonstration of technical skill by an ancient sculptor who carved soft ripples into such hard stone.  

Much of the interest in ancient Egypt stems from the culture’s conception of the afterlife and on this subject, the exhibition does not disappoint. There’s the glittering gold mummy cover of Psusennes I — complete with five toe caps (called stalls) — smooth alabaster canopic jars with a sledge to carry them for easy transport and vividly painted funerary stela. Every finger and toe of a mummy could be protected with solid gold; servants waited on them in the afterlife, too. 

The embarrassment of riches on display begs the question — how was it possible to transport it all here, both in terms of the extreme weight and the inestimable value? 

“There is an army just to collect these artifacts in Egypt and to prepare them to travel,” Awady said. “This is the ugly part of the operation. When you deal with such artifacts, you can’t [make] a tiny mistake.” The undertaking is gargantuan, but it’s worth it, since the museum anticipates overwhelming demand.

This is the third time in 20 years that ancient Egypt has been the subject of an exhibition at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, a record even Attia acknowledged was impressive. The Egyptian obsession is not unique to Americans, nor to modern times; the Valley of the Kings was raided even in antiquity, Awady said. 

The story of the pharaohs, in turn, becomes just as much about the treasure lovers and hunters as it is about the treasures. Theodore Davis, an American lawyer who sponsored excavations, adored talking to the press — and successfully associated his name with Tutankhaman’s in Egyptian museums, Awady said.

On the other hand, the French Egyptologist Pierre Montet, who unearthed the city of Tanis’s Amun Temple complex in 1939, revealing more than 2,500 precious objects, feared for his life, possibly because his work coincided with the outbreak of World War II. The exhibition includes a section devoted to some of Montet’s glittering discoveries from royal burials, discoveries comparable to the objects found in Tut’s tomb. 

San Franciscans are privileged to be able to see such treasures of civilization in our own backyard. Yet the ultimate goal for Egyptian curators is to lure foreign visitors. 

“There are over 4,000 archaeological sites in Egypt, and we need people to come and visit,” Awady said, “We need money to preserve the heritage.” 

“Treasures of the Pharaohs” will be on display at the de Young from August 1 through January 31, 2027.

Julie Zigoris is an author and award-winning journalist whose writing has appeared in The New York Times, The Boston Globe, HuffPost, The San Francisco Chronicle, SFGATE, KQED and elsewhere.

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